A gastronomic meeting point: must-try food in Batumi, Georgia

Adjarian khachapuri. Image by Valeria Boltneva from Pexels

What’s more Georgian than khachapuri? It's arguably the star of every table, an omnipresent delight that's utterly irresistible. This staple is a culinary journey in itself, with each region boasting its own recipe. The true celebrity and one of the most popular variations across the country is khachapuri, born in the heart of Adjara. Imagine a pillowy, boat-shaped bread that cradles a divine filling of creamy cheeses, imeruli or suluguni, and sunny egg yolks. After baking, a pat of butter is added to the piping hot and sizzling goodness.

Before sinking your teeth into this gastronomic pleasure, take a moment to blend all these ingredients within the “boat”, allowing them to intertwine. Legend has it that the history of this dish is connected to the Laz people, who were boatmen and fishermen. And crackling an egg into cheese was a poetic homage to the sun setting into the sea.

Nestled away from the bustling tourist hubs, Khinklis Gemo+ offers a spacious haven loved by locals. It’s a place where traditional Georgian cuisine takes center stage at wallet-friendly prices. The walls, adorned with authentic paintings, create the backdrop for an immersive experience, enhanced with live music. The restaurant invites you to indulge in a leisurely feast, complemented by attentive and hospitable waitstaff.

The menu captures the intercultural essence of Batumi, blending local delicacies with familiar European and oriental flavors. Here, you'll find a variety of appetizers, including cheese plates, an assortment of pkhali, and eggplant rolls with walnuts. Make sure to try kebabs or shashlik featuring veal, chicken, and salmon. And don’t miss the sublime Adjarian khachapuri, along with Imeretian and Megrelian options. The offerings extend to include variations of Caesar salad, pizzas, soups, and, of course, the perfect companions to your meal – chacha and wine.

Khinkali. Photo from Dzveli gemo, FB: https://www.facebook.com/DzveliGemoBatumi

Khinkali is another essential on every Georgian table. It is a cultural emblem, considered one of the nation's beloved dishes. Bearing a resemblance to Central Asian manti and likely introduced by the Tartars in the 13th century, the dish has been ingrained in the country’s culinary traditions ever since. It is pockets of dough filled with a tantalizing blend of meat, spices, and flavorful broth, then gracefully twisted into a knot at the top. By the way, they say that an ideal khinkali boasts 19 meticulously crafted pleats. While pork, beef, or lamb are the reigning champions of fillings, the gastronomic landscape is evolving with the emergence of vegetarian alternatives, such as cheese, mushrooms, or potatoes. 

Now, a pro tip: forget the fork. Traditionally, khinkali is meant to be savored by holding the “tail” with your fingers. And let's be honest, beyond the etiquette, you wouldn't want to miss a single drop of that precious liquid inside.

Dzveli Gemo, just a stone's throw from the Batumi Archaeological Museum, has earned its reputation as the go-to spot for the best khinkali in town. With a modern and simple interior, the restaurant places a strong emphasis on delivering high-quality creations of national cuisine. Evenings here come alive with the soulful sounds of live Georgian music, cultivating an atmosphere that, while animated, is undeniably worth the experience. Savor their mouthwatering special house khinkali, featuring enticing options like cheese and mushroom variations. Otherwise, indulge in an array of hearty dishes, including khachapuri, warming soups, lobiani, mushroom clay pot specialties, BBQ, and ojakhuri. Besides, vegetarians will be fully satisfied at Dzveli Gemo too.

Lobio. Photo from Café Adjara Old House RestoBar, FB: https://www.facebook.com/cafeadjara

Lobio is a hearty and flavorful stew, typically made with red kidney beans, enriched with a savory blend of herbs, spices, and aromatic ingredients. The dish is often infused with fragrant walnut paste, giving it a unique consistency and nutty undertones. Variations of lobio abound, with regional differences influencing the choice of beans and seasoning. You will encounter options featuring tkemali (sour plum) sauce, leeks, ham, dried fruit, and other creative additions. Beans, cooked until tender, form a velvety base, resulting in a rich and comforting texture. Traditionally served in a rustic clay pot, the stew is accompanied by a delightful assortment of pickles, fresh spring onions, and mchadi cornbread.

Located on Batumi's central avenue, Old Boulevard offers a spacious dining hall spanning two levels with large windows, high ceilings, and an air of elegance. Its elaborate interior transports guests to a sculptor's studio, surrounded by intriguing elements like plaster models, a potter's wheel, and study drawings. The meticulous attention to detail is unmistakable, with decorative bricks carrying a century of history. Old Boulevard hosts live musical performances, featuring a pianist, a guitarist, and a violinist, that add a layer of beauty to your dinner and make it feel both luxurious and welcoming.

The menu presents a fusion of international flavors with a distinct Georgian touch. Whether you're indulging in a hearty breakfast with omelets, menemen, pancakes, and syrniki, or savoring a satisfying lunch of lobio, dolma, ojakhuri, tenderloin, chicken fricassee, pastas, and duck filet in berry and wine sauce, there's a culinary delight to suit every taste. And for those who crave the smoky goodness of the grill, a variety of enticing BBQ dishes awaits.

Borano. Photo from Ajarian House, FB: https://www.instagram.com/ajarianhouse

Borano is a lesser-known delight originating from the Adjara region. However, it has become part of the intangible cultural heritage, standing proudly alongside other treasures like khachapuri and the qvevri wine-making method. Often hailed as Georgian fondue, it is a high-calorie indulgence designed for those with huge cravings. The traditional preparation involves melting braided mountain cheese in burnt kaymak butter, called “yagi”. A beaten egg is sometimes poured over the mix, resulting in a mouthwatering omelet-like concoction that is enjoyed as a filling breakfast delicacy. Borano also comes in popular variations with potatoes and corn flour, served with fresh bread or mchadi. A versatile side for main dishes or salads, it truly represents the highland region, abundant in quality dairy products.

Ajarian House, nestled amidst a lush green park just steps away from the beach, provides a unique blend of convenience and comfort. After a refreshing swim, dining at this restaurant can be the perfect culmination of a seaside day. Guests enjoy a picturesque setting with beautiful views spanning from the lively dancing fountains to a peaceful lake. Outdoor tables offer a front-row seat to the mesmerizing changes of the sunset over the Black Sea, accompanied by the gentle breeze.

The extensive menu features Adjarian specialties, including classic borano, iakhni (beef in walnut sauce), sinori, chirbuli (eggs in various sauces), and an array of mouthwatering local cheeses, khachapuri, and achma. In addition, the menu presents an unexpected selection of fish options, featuring sea bass, dorado, salmon, and trout.

Sinori. Image from Sinori Batumi, Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sinoribatumi

Another shining star among dairy-based gems of Adjarian cuisine is sinori, crafted with butter and nadugi, a soured milk product akin to cottage cheese, all encased in layers of thin yeast-free bread rolls, known as iukha. Garlic, hot melted erbo and a finishing touch of fried butter enhance the taste of the dish. While seemingly simple, it harbors a secret in the selection of high-quality ingredients. Often compared to achma, a type of khachapuri that resembles lasagna with layered dough, sinori stands out for its lighter texture. Served fresh from the oven, it makes for a decadent breakfast, rich in flavors and warmth. For sweet enthusiasts, there’s a delectable option that includes a medley of nuts, mountain honey, raisins, and more. 

Situated in Batumi’s old town, Lurji Sufra is a cozy spot that effortlessly captures the essence of Georgian hospitality. With charming blue ornaments adorning the interior, the atmosphere is simple yet inviting, complemented by a friendly staff that makes every visit a heartwarming experience. The unpretentious setting doesn't overshadow the highlight of the show – the incredible food. The menu proudly boasts an array of baked goods, with hot dishes featuring tantalizing options like veal with ajika, beef stroganoff, and chicken in garlic sauce, along with flavorful sinori, all at excellent prices. It's worth noting, however, that Lurji Sufra doesn't offer khinkali, which you might typically expect in a Georgian restaurant. For the ideal finale, don't miss out on the chance to pair your meal with a good Kindzmarauli or Khvanchkara wine. 

Red mullet. Photo from Black Sea, FB: https://www.facebook.com/RestaurantBlackSea/

As a coastal port city, Batumi boasts an array of sea offerings in addition to its mountain treasures. While good seafood is more of a rare find in Georgia, there’s a fish market where fresh catches are available daily, and nearby, you'll discover restaurants that prepare it in the best way. One of the must-tries is red mullet, affectionately known locally as “barabuli”. These small, striped fish are delicately coated in flour, fried to a golden perfection, and savored whole. They are served with lemon slices and can be accompanied by the sweet and sour sauce, tkemali. The robust fishy taste finds a perfect balance when paired with a refreshing cold beer.

Celebrated as one of the city's finest seafood havens, Black Sea offers a truly special experience where you can select your fresh catch from the nearby fish market to be expertly cooked by a skilled chef. Despite its somewhat distant location, it remains a bustling hub for both locals and visitors. This enduring popularity is no surprise, given its rich legacy of serving quality seafood for over 30 years.

Their menu features red mullet, mackerel, flounder, as well as lobsters, crab, shrimp, mussels, and a variety of vegetarian options. Classic baked dishes and salads complement the array of offerings. While the prices lean towards the higher end, the restaurant compensates with generously portioned servings. As you relish the delicious flavors paired with a glass of chilled white wine, you're treated to a mesmerizing sea view and breathtaking sunsets from its charming terrace overlooking the water. 

Meat casserole with hot sauce. Image by KamranAydinov from Freepik

Chakhokhbili is a traditional comforting stew featuring tender chunks of chicken bathed in a harmony of tomatoes, peppers, and Georgian spices. Legend has it that a resourceful lady once found herself tasked with cooking a pheasant. However, her kitchen lacked any oil or fat. Undeterred by the challenge, she ingeniously opted to fry the meat “dry”, seasoned it with spices, and let it simmer in a tantalizing tomato sauce, giving birth to the delightful treat we now know as chakhokhbili. Today, the Adjarian recipe introduces a cup of rice, crushed walnuts, and garlic, magically transforming the dish into a fragrant chicken soup. It is typically enjoyed with bread, the best companion to soak up all the delicious sauce.

The Heart of Batumi restaurant truly lives up to its name, and it's not just about its central location. Beyond that, the establishment charms visitors with a warm and welcoming atmosphere reminiscent of a grandma's cozy dining room. The superb service and high-quality homemade food make this down-to-earth destination a standout choice for those eager to explore traditional specialties. Bright yellow façades, coupled with a colorful interior, create a nice and artistic space. And the restaurant’s terrace is a great spot to soak in the rhythm of the city as you savor their famous Adjarian khachapuri, tasty baked eggplant, hearty chakhokhbili, or shashlik. Vegetarian options like ojakhuri, chashushuli with mushrooms, and delicious pkhali provide ample choices for all tastes. During dinner, Heart of Batumi can get quite busy, so be prepared for a short wait. 

Mushroom on ketsi. Photo from Café Adjara Old House RestoBar, FB: https://www.facebook.com/cafeadjara

This tantalizing delicacy features button mushroom caps, generously bathed in butter, stuffed with the iconic sulguni cheese, and baked in a traditional ketsi, a shallow round red clay pot. The ingredients and juices fuse together while cooking in the oven, resulting in a heavenly combination of earthy, buttery, and salty notes. There’s also a delightful texture interplay, as tender mushrooms provide the perfect canvas for gooey and stretchy sulguni. In other words, the dish is both addictive and unforgettable. It is enjoyed as an appetizer or a side, often accompanied by crusty bread to relish every last bit of the savory sauce.

Located not far from Batumi's beautiful Piazza Square, Porto Franco sets the stage for a cozy atmosphere with stone decor and an inviting fireplace. Beyond the friendly service and fair prices, you can indulge in the most authentic flavors of Georgian cuisine. They serve a gigantic Adjaruli khachapuri, playfully named Titanic, crowned with three eggs, and meant for sharing. Just a heads-up: if you opt for this culinary spectacle, the chances of having room for anything else are pretty low! Otherwise, relish succulent mushrooms on ketsi, available with or without cheese. Also explore a variety of clay pot delights like beans and chicken liver, along with a mouthwatering selection of kebabs, BBQ options, and fresh catches such as salmon and trout. And, of course, going for a draft beer or a glass of local wine would definitely be a wise choice.

Baklava. Photo from Koklozina Adjarian Sweets, FB: https://www.facebook.com/koklozinasbaklava

No visit to Batumi is truly complete without surrendering to the divine sweetness of baklava, locally hailed as pakhlava. Influenced by Turkish culinary traditions, the dessert has a unique, distinct taste here — rich and buttery, derived from the exclusive use of walnuts. Creating baklava in the traditional way involves preparing 30 to 40 layers of pastry by hand, each generously covered with sugar and nuts. Some Georgian recipes incorporate honey and dried fruit for an extra dimension of flavor. Before baking, it is cut into diamond shapes, and every piece is adorned by halves of walnuts. Fresh out of the oven, a lavish amount of spiced syrup is poured over the warm pastry, allowing it to seep into those layers. Indulge in the local tradition by pairing this heavenly dessert with a cup of Turkish-style or Batumian coffee, skillfully brewed on sand. 

While there are lots of places with yummy Turkish baklava in Batumi, if you want to experience a genuine local flavor, Koklozina Adjarian Sweets is the place to be. This hidden gem offers delectably affordable treats that practically melt in your mouth, featuring top-quality ingredients and exclusively fragrant walnuts. There's a variety of handcrafted baklava made according to old traditions and using time-honored techniques. The charming café, recently renovated with pleasant green walls and light wood furniture, is an ideal destination to savor the freshest desserts alongside a good cup of coffee. 

Pelamushi. Photo from Café Adjara Old House RestoBar, FB: https://www.facebook.com/cafeadjara

Wine enthusiasts, rejoice: there's a wine-infused dessert for you! To be more specific, it is a luscious pudding-like creation born from the rich heritage of Georgian viticulture, called pelamushi. At the heart of this velvety treat lies badagi, a concentrated sweet elixir crafted from freshly pressed grapes. It is blended with either wheat or corn flour and boiled, requiring a continuous, gentle stir over low heat until it achieves a thick texture. Traditionally, no sugar is added, as the natural sweetness of the grapes does the trick. The mixture is carefully poured into molds, transforming into a jelly-like delight as it cools. In the last step, the dessert is adorned with nuts, seeds, fruit, honey, or whatever the chef’s imagination fancies. By the way, while red juice is more common, you can often see white pelamushi at weddings.

Café Adjara Old House RestoBar promises an intimate and relaxed dining escapade. Drawing inspiration from the diverse regions of the country, their chef highlights the finest local produce. Dishes are prepared daily on-site with a commitment to pure, unadulterated flavors. The restaurant is a haven for grand celebrations and traditional feasts, accompanied by a plethora of exquisite Georgian wines. While the modern interiors may not exude authenticity, the thoughtful menu speaks volumes.

Choose from a breakfast lineup, warming soups, stews, grilled treats, khinkali, khachapuri, and pizza. You will also find clay pot offerings featuring beans, meat, and mushrooms. Conclude your meal with tempting desserts like pelamushi, baklava, strudel, brownies, or cheesecake. By the way, most of the dishes here are designed for sharing, allowing you to curate a diverse and delightful spread on your table.

We hope our guide proves helpful in uncovering the city's gastronomic treasures. Whether you've had the chance to visit Batumi or indulge in some of its specialties, we'd love to hear from you. Feel free to share your thoughts and culinary adventures in the comments below!